AutoWash Express

 

Given time, even the sturdiest car doors sag on their hinges. This is especially true of 2-door models which have longer, heavier doors.
Before you attempt to adjust a door, inspect the hinges for wear by lifting the end of the door up and down. If there is excessive play, one or both hinges will have to be replaced. If you've neglected the body, the play might be where the door pillar has rusted out.
To adjust the door up or down, loosen the hinge-to-body bolts, have an assistant hold the door in the adjusted position, then tighten the bolts. Do in-and-out adjustments only after the up-and-down adjustment is completed by loosening the hinge- to- door bolts and sliding the door in or out appropriately.
Once the door is aligned with an even gap all around and it sits flush with the rest of the body, adjust the door latch striker by loosening it just enough so that closing the door will cause it to move to the proper position, then unlatch the door and retighten the striker.

Timing belts resemble an engine accessory serpentine belt in appearance, only they typically have square teeth on the inside surface. They usually are constructed of rubber reinforced with nylon. Simply put, the timing belt transfers the rotation of the crankshaft to the camshaft. The rotating camshaft activates the valves, which provide air and fuel to the cylinders and expel combustion gases to the exhaust system.
The valves and pistons are constantly moving up and down at very high speeds. When the pistons are down, the valves are open; when the piston is at the top of its travel, the valves are closed. Some engines don't allow clearance between a valve at its lowest point and a piston at its highest. The timing belt, therefore, is the critical link to ensure that these components don't collide. If collision occurs, damage to the valves, pistons, cylinder head, and cylinder walls can result. This can be an expensive repair.
Timing belts usually are protected from foreign objects by a cover, which makes visual inspection impossible.
Many domestic vehicles built within the last several years and the majority of imports are equipped with a timing belt. Other engines rely on a timing chain rather than a belt. Refer to your owner's manual or take your car to a repair facility if you are unsure. The owner's manual maintenance schedule is a source of timing belt replacement intervals.
Typically, automakers recommend replacing the belt every 60,000 to 90,000 miles.
Timing belt replacement usually requires removal of the engine drive belt that operates the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, and air conditioner. Consider replacing this belt, or multiple belts, when having a new timing belt installed.

Brought to you as a public service by Car Care Council. Visit their site at: www.carcarecouncil.org.

What to Do When Your Windshield is Damaged 

PITTSBURGH, July 24 /PRNewswire/ -- It happened on that vacation drive to the beach. A rock popped up from the road and put a chip in your windshield. If you think the whole windshield needs replaced, you may be relieved to know that in many instances it can be fixed, saving you time and money.

Auto glass experts say minor windshield damage can be repaired before it worsens. According to Carolyn Armentrout, Senior Account Manager for PPG PROSTARS, a nationwide alliance of certified auto glass technicians, "repair can be a smart alternative to replacement under certain circumstances, and if it's done properly."

Armentrout says the most important thing to remember about minor glass damage is not to procrastinate. "If the chip spreads into a crack from vibrations or rapid temperature changes, it could mean you'd need to replace the glass." And that could cost you money.

Clearly, a major benefit to repair versus replacement is it's less expensive - approximately a tenth of the cost. And, insurance companies often pay the glass shop directly for repairs, waiving the deductible on comprehensive policies. "So, it costs you virtually nothing," says Armentrout.

There are other benefits to repair. John Farfalla, President of Norman's Auto Glass in Trenton, N.J., says a repair can be done by a mobile unit at your home or work. "It's very convenient. It only takes about 30 minutes,
and you can drive your car right away."

So how do you know when to repair and when to replace? Armentrout says there are three rules of thumb when it comes to proper, safe auto glass repair:

1) Only damage to the outside layer of the laminated safety glass can be repaired.

2) If the damage appears in the driver's line of sight (the area just above the steering wheel), the glass should be replaced. It's the law in most states.

3) Only damage smaller than the size of a quarter should be repaired.

But not all auto glass damage is the same. Farfalla says there are basically four kinds of windshield chips:

-- A "bullseye" is a moderately deep hole surrounded by a dark circle

-- A "star" is damage that has a series of short cracks

-- A "half-moon" is a partial "bullseye"

-- A "combination" is part "star" and part "bullseye"

Farfalla says "`stars' are more likely to crack than `bullseyes.' So, if you have a chip in your windshield that has radial legs in it, the issue is even more urgent." He also says it's easier to fix glass damage before dirt and grit get in.

According to Farfalla, when a rock hits auto glass, it creates an air pocket. To repair the glass properly, the air must be removed. The technician uses a hand or electric pump to create a vacuum. Then, a clear resin is injected into the hole. The resin bonds the glass together, restores strength to the windshield, and prevents the damage from spreading. It should also match the glass color and clarity. An ultraviolet (UV) lamp is used to cure the resin instantly. "The car can be driven and taken to the car wash
immediately," says Farfalla.

But he warns there's no such thing as a perfect fix. Repairs usually leave small blemishes. "The good news is a properly done repair is permanent. In fact, in many instances the glass is actually strengthened by the resin."
Armentrout says that since repairs are typically inexpensive or even free to car owners, you can't lose by trying. "But that's only if the job is done right," she continues. Armentrout recommends hiring a technician certified by the National Windshield Repair Association and the National Glass Association (NGA).

One source for quality auto glass repair is PPG PROSTARS Certified Auto Glass Technicians. Their technicians have a minimum of three years glass installation and repair experience or NGA certification. PPG PROSTARS shops offer PPG's Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Automotive Replacement Glass which has earned the Good Housekeeping Seal. They also offer a national warranty on glass installation. For more information about safe auto glass repair or replacement, visit http://www.ppgprostars.com, or call 1-866-2-THEPROS to talk with an auto glass professional near you.
(Courtesy Cartrackers.com)

Changing Oil, Sparkplugs and Filters

Scott Roush is editor of a collision repair magazine and has covered the auto industry for the past seven years. He resides in Detroit and still likes Tiger Stadium more than the new ballpark.

Despite the fact that today's automobiles are becoming increasing complex for the average do-it-yourselfer, there are still small maintenance projects you can tackle yourself. These will help save you some money and give you the satisfaction of getting the job done yourself.

Changing oil, replacing sparkplugs and air filters are simple tasks that should be done on a regular basis to help keep your car running smooth. These are all easy projects that don't require an extensive knowledge of automobiles like replacing a transmission or diagnosing engine problems. A weekend afternoon is probably all you need to get these tasks completed.

It should be noted that the manuals often recommend servicing your car based on "normal" driving. Most people these days, with stop-and-go traffic and short errands, do not drive normally. These types of driving are some of the toughest situations your car will face because they usually include lots of cold starts followed by short trips that don't allow the engine to warm up completely. Unless you really feel your car only gets "normal" driving, it's best to follow an accelerated maintenance schedule.

When looking for replacement parts, your best bet is to go to an auto parts store first in case you have questions. The employees at these businesses most likely have a better understanding about automobiles than people who work at general department stores. If you feel like you can get a better price at one of these larger stores such as Wal-Mart or Kmart, then buy your parts there after visiting an auto parts store.

Changing Motor Oil

The oil in your vehicle is the lifeblood of your engine. A thin layer of oil keeps the metal parts inside an engine from rubbing against each other. Without proper maintenance and regular changing, you can do serious damage to your car. Some people have even had to have their engine replaced because they neglected to change their oil. A very expensive repair could have been avoided by a simple oil change.

Now that you understand that you must change your oil, your next question will be: How often do I need to change it? The term, "on a regular basis," is vague at best. Most oil companies recommend every 3,000 miles or three months, whichever comes first. Automakers may say to wait longer before changing oil, but you can be sure that changing your oil every 3,000 mile won't accelerate wear.

Despite the advanced technology of today's automobiles, changing oil is still an easy- do-it-yourself project because it is simple and inexpensive. Before starting the task, make sure you have everything you will need.

First of all, you need oil. Not just any kind of oil, but the right lubricant for your vehicle. If you are not sure what kind of oil your car or truck uses, check the owner's manual. Also see what kind of oil filter fits on your car. You will want to change the filter when you change the oil.

Equipment you will likely need includes: car jack, funnel, jack stands, oil (usually five quarts), oil drain pan, new oil filter, oil filter wrench, plastic container, old rags, ratchet set, rubber gloves and socket set.

Before starting the project, run your car for about 10 minutes. Warm oil drains better than cold oil. If you can get under your vehicle to change your oil, make sure it is parked on level surface. If there is not enough clearance, use your car jack to raise the car and the jack stands to keep it secure.

After the vehicle is firmly supported, crawl under it and locate the oil drain plug. It's usually in the front center of the vehicle. Place the oil drain pan under the plug. Then loosen the plug and with a socket wrench. Remove the plug with your hand and be ready for the warm oil draining out.

Once all the oil has drained out, wipe off the drain opening and plug with an old rag. Reinstall the plug by hand and then tighten with the socket wrench.

Locate the oil filter. It's typically on the side of the engine. Position the drain pan under the filter to catch any remaining oil. Use the oil filter wrench to unscrew the old oil filter. Wipe off any old oil where the filter mounts to the engine. Put some new oil on the rubber seal of the new filter and screw the filter into place by hand.

When adding new oil, first locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine. Place the funnel in the opening and pour in the new oil. Replace the cap, run the engine, then check the dipstick. Add more oil if you need it.

Wipe away excess oil with a rag. Pour the old oil into plastic containers and dispose of it properly. Take it to either a recycling center or a auto repair shop that takes used oil.

Replacing an Air Filter

This task is easier than changing your oil. Just as with oil, check you owner's manual to make sure you are buying the right air filter for your car. Air filters, which keep dirt out of the engine, should be replaced about every 15,000 miles.

The air filter is usually on top of the engine. Unscrew the top to the air filter housing. Lift out the old air filter.

Clean any dirt, debris or bugs from the housing with a rag.

Then simply replace the old filter with a new one and secure the cover. That's it, you're done!

Changing Spark Plugs

This procedure is done less frequently than changing oil or air filter but it can be the most difficult depending on the location of the plugs.

Most spark plugs last well beyond 20,000 miles while ones with platinum tips don't need to be changed until the reach 100,000 miles. Check your owner's manual before you buy replacement plugs to make sure you have the right spark plugs.

Make sure your engine is cool before starting. You will need a gap gauge, spark plug wire puller, spark plug wrench, small paint brush, and, of course, new spark plugs.

Before starting, you need to set the gap between the center electrode and the ground electrode for each plug. It must be the exact distance recommended by the automaker. You will find this information in your owner's manual or consult with your mechanic. A gap gauge will determine the exact distance, if it doesn't match the specifications, carefully bend the ground or wire electrode until it does.

Locate the spark plug wires and follow them down to wear the plugs attach to the engine. If the plugs are hard to reach, use the spark plug wire puller to separate the wire from the plug.

Using the spark plug wrench, carefully remove each plug by turning it to the left. Take the paint brush and carefully brush away any dirt from the spark plug cylinder holes. Don't get any dirt in the holes.

Install the new plugs by screwing them to the right. Start by hand and then use the spark plug wrench to tighten them. Don't overtighten! Plugs can break.

There you have three easy tasks that you can do on a weekend afternoon that will save you money and give you the satisfaction of doing it yourself. (Courtesy Cartrackers.com)

Corrosion Protection

Your car's underbody fights an ongoing battle against corrosion. Just a few simple steps can help keep it rust-free.
Thoroughly flush road-salt residue with a garden hose. Spray especially well inside wheel wells and on the underbody, where accumulated mud and leaves act as moisture traps, creating ideal conditions for rust. Use a stiff brush to remove any clinging bits that your hose misses. While you're there, check for loose of missing splash guards of inner fender panels. These must be reattached or replaced.
Many vehicle doors have drain holes that can become plugged. Use a thin wire or pipe cleaner to scrape them free. Clogging can create a corrosion colony inside that may rust through quicker than exposed parts on the car's underside.
Once each month, get under your car and inspect for clogged drain holes and missing plugs. Loose undercoating can provide a place for salt and mud to collect in contact with the metal panels. Use a putty knife to pry loose any corroded or cracked undercoating, then wire-brush and clean with solvent. Respray with spray-can undercoating, which you can find at the auto parts store.
Similarly, police suspension components, like the top of control arms, for pockets of mud and road debris. Remove any of this material and keep the areas painted. (Courtesy Parts America)

AUTOWASH EXPRESS'S "Best Wash" includes both an undercarriage flush plus a rust inhibitor which accomplishes most of the above.

Paint Touch Ups

Fixing nicks and scratches as soon as they occur can do more than make your car look better. It can also make it last longer. That's because nicks and scratches - even those that don't go all the way to bare metal - are the first place that rust forms.
To fix a scratch, first determine your car's paint code, usually located on a badge under the hood, in a door jamb, inside the trunk or in some other hidden location. Find your car's code badge by checking a service manual or calling your local dealer.
At the auto parts store, match your paint code with the code in the paint-matching application guide. For small repairs, purchase a bottle of matching paint that has a brush built into the cap. If the scratch goes down to bare metal, purchase primer and metal conditioner.
Wash the repair area with mild soap and water, rinse thoroughly and then dry with a lintfree cloth. Remove wax, grease and oil with a wax remover, acetone or lacquer thinner. If rust is present, scrape away as much as possible with a single razor-blade, then treat with a rust remover followed by a rust converter (See Rust Prevention Tip).
For bare metal that's rust free, apply metal conditioner according to container directions. Follow by brushing on two or three coats of primer, allowing five minutes between coats. Let the primer

High-Tech Paint

If you're having your car repainted, take advantage of the new paint technologies. You no longer have to settle for lacquer, which looks great but lacks durability. Or enamel, which is more durable but also has more orange peel.
The new 2-part polyurethane paints are much more durable than either lacquer or enamel, and they'll give a glass-smooth shine that rivals the best hand-rubbed lacquer. Colors have also gotten deeper and richer, thanks to paint systems that employ a base color followed by an ultrahigh-gloss clear coat.
Metallic colors also got more dazzling when paint makers began adding mica chips, which pick up and reflect light more brilliantly than standard metallic chips. Even if you decide to stick with your car's original color, ask your body shop about the newest paints. Your paint job will last longer and look better.
Beware, almost all of the new paint systems use toxic chemicals, so drive-way respraying is out.
dry for thirty minutes before applying color coats.
After thoroughly mixing the color touch-up paint, apply two or three coats in one direction, allowing sufficient drying time between coats. If the original paint has a clear coat, apply two very thin coats of clear to achieve proper color match.
Let the repair dry for at least a week, then use fine polishing compound on a very wet rag to smooth out the repair. Be careful not to rub through the color. Follow up by waxing and polishing.

How to Use Your Booster Cable

Review jump starting procedures in Vehicles Owner manual. If manual is missing or no procedure is specified, follow these instructions. *Note: instructions are for negative grounded system.
Examine the batteries and systems in both vehicles. If they are not the same voltage, (6 volt or 12 volt) Do Not attempt to jump start.
Don't jump start a damaged battery. Be sure vent caps are tight and level. Place damp cloth over vent caps on both batteries. Be sure vehicles do not touch and ignitions are off.
Connect positive (+) cable to positive post of discharged battery.
Connect other end of same cable to same marked post (positive) of starting vehicle battery.
Connect second cable (negative(-)) to other post of booster battery.
MAKE FINAL CONNECTION ON ENGINE BLOCK OF STALLED VEHICLE AWAY FORM BATTERY. STAND BACK!
Start vehicle. If the vehicle does not start after cranking for thirty seconds, stop the procedure. More than thirty seconds seldom starts an engine unless some mechanical adjustment is made.